Diagnose a symptom with RepairIQ or run a Carfax through BuyIQ — either way you get a clear verdict, not just information: what it'll cost, and whether to buy, negotiate, or walk away.
No dealer affiliations. No upsells. Just the report.
Tell it the noise, the light, the way it drives. Get the likely cause, a fair cost, and the exact line to say at the shop so you don't get upsold.
Diagnose a symptomUpload a Carfax. Get a mechanic-level breakdown — buy, negotiate, or run away — in 30 seconds.
Analyze a CarfaxEvery meaningful issue in the report — accidents, title problems, service gaps, ownership changes — becomes its own card, in plain English. No more scrolling through raw data trying to figure out what matters.
Where a flag suggests a likely repair (like a maintenance gap lining up with a major service interval), we estimate what it'll probably cost — so "gap in records" becomes a real number.
One clear call: buy as-is, negotiate (with a suggested dollar amount), or walk away — plus the exact thing to say to the seller if you're negotiating.
A real analysis on a 2018 Honda Civic Si. This is exactly what your report looks like.
Solid bones, but oil dilution TSB is unresolved and the pre-sale repair pattern suggests the owner is offloading known issues.
Regular oil changes every 5K, timing belt documented.
Early for a manual. Ask for shop receipt and test shifts under load.
10th-gen 1.5T known issue. Two oil changes in 60 days before sale is a tell.
Pick the tool that matches what you're trying to figure out.
Upload any Carfax or AutoCheck report. BuyIQ reads it like a mechanic would and gives you a clear verdict in under 30 seconds.
We pull the year, make, model, VIN, and mileage straight from the report — so you know exactly which car this verdict applies to before anything else.
Every meaningful issue in the report — accidents, title problems, service gaps, ownership changes — becomes its own card, in plain English. No more scrolling through raw data trying to figure out what matters.
Each flag is ranked by how much it should actually worry you — a paint touch-up claim isn't the same as a branded title, and the report shouldn't treat them the same.
Where a flag suggests a likely repair (like a maintenance gap lining up with a major service interval), we estimate what it'll probably cost — so "gap in records" becomes a real number.
One clear call: buy as-is, negotiate (with a suggested dollar amount), or walk away — plus the exact thing to say to the seller if you're negotiating.
Got a quote from a shop, or a weird noise/light you're worried about? RepairIQ tells you if the price is fair and what's actually likely going on.
Describe the symptom, the warning light, or paste in the quote you were given — no technical knowledge required.
We match your description against known patterns for your car's make, model, and mileage to identify what's probably actually wrong — not just what the symptom sounds like.
We compare the quote you were given against typical parts and labor costs for that repair, so you know if you're being overcharged before you say yes.
A short script for exactly how to push back on a quote that's too high, or confirm one that's fair — so you're not standing at the counter guessing.
We do one thing: read the paperwork before you spend money on a mechanic. Here's what that means.
Buying a used car has three checks that matter: the paperwork, the mechanical inspection, and the deal itself. VehicleIQ reads the paperwork — the Carfax, the AutoCheck, the service history — and tells you if it's clean enough to justify paying a mechanic $150–$300 for a pre-purchase inspection. If the history is a minefield, a PPI is wasted money. If it's clean, you book the PPI with confidence and walk into the negotiation knowing what you're working with.
Every report gets cross-referenced against what a seasoned used-car buyer already knows: manufacturer TSBs (oil dilution on the 1.5T Civic, head gasket failures on the Focus RS, water pump on the Mk7 GTI around 80k), red-flag patterns (repair blitzes right before a sale, the same system failing twice, auction flips after private ownership, years of service gaps), and mileage-appropriate cost-of-ownership. You get flags tied to specific dates and mileages on your report — not generic platitudes.
We don't run a compression test, check frame alignment, pull OBD codes, or verify the VIN on the dash matches the title. That's what a mechanic does on a PPI, and it's the step we can't replace. We also don't re-run the Carfax — you bring the report, we read it. Think of us as the filter before the mechanic: cheap enough to use on every car you're considering, honest about what it can't see.
No subscriptions. No account. Every report, free.
First one's free. No credit card.